Sunday, March 1, 1998

The world's favourite destination: a guide


The world's favourite destination: a guide

France receives more visitors from both Britain and the rest of the world than any other country. Here, in the first of our three-page special report on our nearest and (dare we say it, dearest) neighbour, Jeremy Atiyah offers a region-by-region appreciation
Jeremy Atiyah 
Sunday, 1 March 1998
If a country can be judged by the number of visitors it receives, then France is a big winner. Not only does it receive more foreign visitors annually than any other country, but it also receives the most British visitors - over 10 million. But where do they all go? Unlike Spain, where millions of tourists end up concentrated into the same resorts, France is able to absorb visitors throughout its length and breadth. From the flat mining lands of Nord-pas-de-Calais to the glittering promenades of the Cote d'Azure there is no region without its legion of British devotees. But for those who still can't make up their minds, here is a region-by-region guide, based on the nine most popular regions according to numbers of British tourists.
1/ Paris ile-de-France
So Paris is our favourite city in our favourite country. But given that Paris is not a place to spend a fortnight in high summer, you will probably be looking at a long weekend break. The best way to go is on Eurostar (0345 881881) direct to the Gare du Nord and then find a creaky old hotel with the help of your Rough Guide.
If you are looking for deals though, Paris Travel Service (01992 456000) has some pretty cheap ones, especially departing from the London area in the coming month. Flying from London Gatwick you can spend three nights for pounds 109 including taxes (but not including transfers), or pounds 112 if you travel by Eurostar. Travelling from elsewhere in Britain, VFB Holidays (01242 240300) offers packages with scheduled flights from almost any regional airport - with quite hefty supplements.
Another excellent idea is to combine the urban delights of inner Paris with a spot of rustic country living, by renting a gite in the ile-de- France. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can bring your kids. The main operator dealing with gites in Britain is now Brittany Ferries (0990 360360). For a family of four a gite in the Paris area in mid-summer will cost about pounds 500-pounds 600 including ferry crossings for you and your car.
2/ Brittany
At number two in our hit-list of favourite French regions comes the French equivalent to Cornwall. Brittany is the western extremity of France, its Celtic fringe - it even has its own Land's End (Finisterre). It is also but a single ferry journey away, with regular crossings linking Portsmouth and Poole with St Malo, and Plymouth with Roscoff (Call Brittany Ferries on 0990 360360).
With wonderful beaches, craggy cliffs and off-shore islands, this is a wild and beautiful region. It may not produce wine but the food is superb - come for moules marinieres and soupe de poissons.
A good-value holiday in Brittany is offered by Eurocamp (01565 626262), which provides house-like tents, swimming pools and a cheery atmosphere. Most people just come in the car and rent a gite, but you can take a tour. How about a high-brow study-tour of the megaliths of Brittany in July with Andante Travel (01980 610555)?
3/ Normandy
Even closer to Britain's southern shores than Brittany, Normandy is only marginally less popular. In addition to seaside towns, including the fantastic attraction of Mont-St-Michel, this is the region for visiting the D-Day beaches of the Second World War - Caen for example, which is also a jumping off point for ferries from Portsmouth. Paris is only two hours away by car. If you want a gite in the area try Normandie Vacances (01922 721901), or Thomson's Country Cottages (01282 445511).
4/ Aquitaine
The huge southwestern region of Aquitaine is often referred to by the British in a general way as "the Dordogne", though in fact it includes the city of Bordeaux and the fabulous Atlantic beaches of Arcachon, and extends right down to the Pyrenees and the Spanish border (including the French Basque country). The principal attractions of the area are the world-famous traditions of food and wine and the best people to take you around the vineyards are Arblaster and Clarke Wine Tours (01730 893344). I also rather fancy something called a Gastronomic Cycling Tour run by Headwater (01606 813367) which takes you from superb restaurant to superb restaurant - reckon on about pounds 400 per person half-board, if four people travel together by car. Meanwhile every inland village seems to have its discreetly resident English families; to rent a nice villa of your own try Meon Villas on 01730 268411.
5/ Rhone Alps
The figures for this huge region bordering onto the Swiss and Italian Alps are mainly accounted for by the floods of winter skiers. Not that snow is the only attraction. Lyon is known throughout France as a city of style and superb cuisine. The lake-side cities of Annecy and Aix-les- Bains, as well as Evian-les-Bains on Lake Geneva, are delightful places to take the water. These days the high-speed TGV trains connect Lyon to Paris in only two hours which means you can leave London early morning and be there by lunch-time (book your ticket to Lyon through Eurostar).
6/ Provence
After Peter Mayle, what more can be said? The red roofs, the scent of bitter thyme, the harsh light and balmy air have been attracting artists and vagabonds for centuries. Ancient fortified cities such as Avignon and Aix-en-Provence compete for attention with the great port city of Marseilles. I suggest tailor-made independent walks or bike rides with Inntravel (01653 628862), who will carry your luggage while you amble (or cycle) from hotel to hotel. Reckon on pounds 500-pounds 600 for a six-night trip, including breakfast, picnic lunch and dinner.
7/ Nord-Pas-de-Calais
Eurostar has provided a boost to British tourism in this area. A few years ago nobody used to stop between Paris and Calais. Now we are getting used to the gastronomic and architectural delights of Lille, which is nearer by train to London than Liverpool or Manchester. For Lille short breaks, call Classic Breakaway on 01492 532532. Otherwise, if you fancy a long weekend in a real rural auberge only three hours drive from London, try Inntravel (01653 628862).
8/ Picardy
Picardy is the area between Calais and Normandy, of which the big attraction once again is proximity. The First World War battlefields are attracting more and more visitors. Holts' Tours (01304 612248) arranges expertly guided trips to the Somme and other battle sites.
On a different note, Picardy might also be a good place to try the French equivalent to Center Parks, that is to say purpose-built holiday villages with self-catering studios and villas, alongside a (covered) swimming pool area and other sporting facilities. Call EuroVillages on 01606 734400.
9/ Cote d'Azure
Our ninth favourite region is that little playground of princesses and film-stars down in the far south-eastern corner of France. In the last century the British colonised Nice as an antidote to the northern winter blues. These days we prefer the Canary Islands and the Caribbean mainly because - in towns like Cannes, Antibes, Juan-les-Pins and Monaco - the British are afraid of being shown up by their sexier French counterparts. If you have the nerve, try easyJet (01582 702900) with its pounds 49 plus-tax fare; if you prefer true Cote d'Azure style, how about a villa/chateau with swimming pools and tennis courts? Available from Dominique's Villas (0171 738 8772).